3-O-ETHYL ASCORBIC ACID

The aim of this study was to analyze the effect of concomitant use of cannabigerol (CBG) and 3- O -ethylascorbic acid (EAA) on changes in the proteome of UVA-irradiated skin melanocytes, with particular emphasis on adduct formation between lipid peroxidation products and metabolically important proteins. Proteomic analysis allowed the identification of 1248 proteins with statistically significantly changed expression following melanocytes irradiation and/or incubation with CBG/EAA. The top 25 proteins with the most strongly differentially abundant expression included proteins involved in cell protection/antioxidant response, as well as pro-inflammatory and proapoptotic signalization. Moreover, in melanocytes irradiated with UVA, the levels of lipid peroxidation product, 4-hydroxynonenal (4-HNE) and its protein adducts were increased, as well as significant changes in the profile of proteins modified by 4-HNE were observed. CBG and EAA, especially when used together, largely reverse these effects. This study for the first time demonstrated the combined effect of CBG and EAA on the proteome of melanocytes after their exposure to UVA radiation, which applies to both changes in protein expression and intracellular signaling based on proteins modified by 4-HNE. It can be suggested that CBG and EAA may provide melanocytes with effective protection against the effects of oxidative stress and perhaps even protect the skin from carcinogenesis.

This study developed a thermostable, high-loading dissolving microneedle (DMN) system for the transdermal delivery of anti-aging ingredients, 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid (EAC) and acetyl hexapeptide-8 (AH-8). By using a composite matrix of hyaluronic acid (HA) and polyvinyl alcohol (PVA) in a 3:2 ratio and optimizing a two-step vacuum-assisted micromolding process, we successfully addressed key fabrication challenges, reducing drying time to 2 h and eliminating structural defects. A split-needle design further increased drug loading, reaching 40% for EAC and 20% for AH-8. The resulting DMNs showed excellent mechanical properties, skin penetration efficiency, and biocompatibility in human subjects. In vitro permeation studies using Bama miniature pig skin revealed release profiles influenced by drug-polymer interactions. Despite these differences, both compounds achieved higher cumulative transdermal delivery (EAC: 17.25%; AH-8: 11.29%) than their aqueous solutions. In a UV/D-galactose-induced photoaging mouse model, both EAC-DMNs and AH-8-DMNs significantly reduced visible signs of aging, including wrinkles, skin laxity, and erythema. They also improved skin elasticity and hydration, reversed pathological thickening, and restored oxidative balance by increasing SOD activity and lowering MDA levels. This work provides a scalable, biocompatible, and effective DMN platform, supporting its potential for clinical anti-aging applications.

This study compares the effects of vitamins - including ascorbic acid, its derivative 3-O-ethyl-ascorbic acid (EAA), and tocopherol - as well as the main non-psychoactive phytocannabinoids on the viability of various skin cells, including healthy (keratinocytes/melanocytes/fibroblasts) and cancer cells (melanoma/SCC), under standard culture conditions and after the exposure to UVA radiation. All the conducted tests (MTT, SRB, and LDH) consistently indicate that the regenerative effect of EAA is stronger than that of ascorbic acid, while tocopherol acts selectively on healthy/cancer cells, inducing or inhibiting their proliferation, respectively. In the case of phytocannabinoids, only cannabidiol shows protective/regenerative properties for healthy cells. Moreover, the response of melanocytes to cannabigerol is divergent; however, only the LDH test indicates that cannabigerol strongly increases the membrane permeability of those cells. In summary it should be emphasized that various tests may give partially divergent results due to a variety of measured parameters. Nevertheless, despite the positive viability test results for the potential protective compound, caution should be taken as it may promote healthy skin cells but also protect cancer cells.

Oxidative stress induced by medium-wavelength ultraviolet radiation (UVB) is one of the most dangerous environmental stressors for the skin. Therefore, various medicinal remedies aim to prevent the harmful effects of UVB or support the recovery of the damaged cells. This study aimed to evaluate the impact of bioactive phytocannabinoid cannabigerol (CBG) together with 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid (EAA), a stable, lipophilic derivative of the antioxidant vitamin C, on UVB-induced changes of proteome in cultured human keratinocytes 24 h after treatment. Surprisingly, proteomic analysis revealed very prominent CBG and EAA effects on kinases. These changes mainly influenced ERK1/2, IKK, MAP3K7, MAPK14, RIPK2, and NLK. Their expression was decreased by CBG and EAA, especially if used together after UVB-irradiation, so the effects of UVB were abolished restoring the profile of kinases to non-irradiated control. Moreover, CBG and EAA also reduced the UVB-induced modifications of proteins by the lipid peroxidation product 4-hydroxynonenal, especially in the case of AKT, Camkk1, cJun, ERK1, IKKα, MAPK11 and PERK. We conclude that, by maintaining proteome stability and kinase-dependent signalling, both CBG and EAA may support the recovery of human keratinocytes exposed to UVB radiation, especially if applied together, while the time-dependence of these effects should be further studied.

This study explores the incorporation of 10% 3-O-ethyl L-ascorbic acid (ETVC), a derivative of vitamin C, into two lipid gel systems: a hydrogel (HG) consisting exclusively of lipids and water and a bigel (BG) combining the hydrogel with an oleogel made from olive oil and beeswax. We investigated the ETVC release profiles from both materials using synthetic membranes and measured their permeation through porcine skin in vitro. Additionally, the interaction of these lipid gel systems with the stratum corneum (SC) was determined. Results from the release study indicate that the BG exhibited slower ETVC release compared to the HG. The permeation experiments showed that the presence of lipids in the formulations enhanced ETVC retention in the skin. The HG delivered a higher amount to the SC, while the BG achieved greater retention in the epidermis. This difference is attributed to the different lipophilic nature of each material. The structural analysis of SC lipids revealed that the organization of surface lipids remained unaltered by the application of the gels. Finally, an in vitro efficacy test in porcine skin using methylene blue indicated that our ETVC gels exhibited antioxidant activity. These findings provide valuable insights into the potential of lipid-based gels for topical applications.

Excessive daily exposure of human skin to natural UVA radiation leads to impaired redox homeostasis in epidermal keratinocytes, resulting in changes in their proteome. Commonly used antioxidants usually exhibit protection in a narrowed range, which makes it necessary to combine their effects. Therefore, the aim of this study was to analyze the protective effect of cannabigerol (CBG) and 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid (EAA), used separately and together, on the proteomic profile of UVA irradiated keratinocytes. Proteomic analysis with the use of the Q Exactive HF mass spectrometer, combined with biostatistic tests, performed on UVA-irradiated keratinocytes indicated enhanced and lowered expression of 186 and 160 proteins, respectively. CBG treatment after UVA irradiation reduced these numbers to 110 upregulated and 49 downregulated proteins, while EAA eliminated all these changes. CBG completely eliminated the UV-induced effect on the expression of pro-inflammatory proteins and significantly increased the level of proteins responsible for cellular locomotion. On the other hand, CBG reduced the level of UVA-induced 4-hydroxynonenal protein adducts fivefold, whereas EAA had no effect on this modification. At the same time, CBG and EAA did not modify the expression/structure of proteins in relation to the nonirradiated control keratinocytes in the case of an unaccompanied use or slightly modified the protein profile when used in a mixture. The combined protective effects of CBG on protein structure and EAA on protein expression profile allowed us to obtain a wider protection of cells against UVA radiation, compared with when the compounds were used alone. SIGNIFICANCE STATEMENT: Proteomic analysis of human skin cells allows to conclude that 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid eliminates UVA-induced changes in the expression of keratinocyte proteins, while cannabigerol significantly reduces 4-hydroxynonenal protein adducts. The combined protective effects of cannabigerol on protein structure and of 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid on protein expression profile allowed to obtain a wider protection of cells against UVA radiation.

The purpose of this study is to present a novel strategy to enhance collagen production in cells. To identify amino acid analogs with excellent collagen production-enhancing effects, human dermal fibroblasts (HDFs) were treated with 20 kinds of amidated amino acids and 20 kinds of free amino acids, individually at 1 mM. The results showed that glycinamide enhanced collagen production (secreted collagen level) most effectively. Glycine also enhanced collagen production to a lesser degree. However, other glycine derivatives, such as N-acetyl glycine, N-acetyl glycinamide, glycine methyl ester, glycine ethyl ester, and glycyl glycine, did not show such effects. Glycinamide increased type I and III collagen protein levels without affecting COL1A1 and COL3A1 mRNA levels, whereas transforming growth factor-β1 (TGF-β1, 10 ng mL -1 ) increased both mRNA and protein levels of collagens. Ascorbic acid (AA, 1 mM) increased COL1A1 and COL3A1 mRNA and collagen I protein levels. Unlike TGF-β1, AA and glycinamide did not increase the protein level of α-smooth muscle actin, a marker of differentiation of fibroblasts into myofibroblasts. The combination of AA and glycinamide synergistically enhanced collagen production and wound closure in HDFs to a level similar to that in cells treated with TGF-β1. AA derivatives, such as magnesium ascorbyl 3-phosphate (MAP), 3- O -ethyl ascorbic acid, ascorbyl 2- O -glucoside, and ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate, enhanced collagen production, and the mRNA and protein levels of collagens at 1 mM, and their effects were further enhanced when co-treated with glycinamide. Among AA derivatives, MAP had a similar effect to AA in enhancing wound closure, and its effect was further enhanced by glycinamide. Other AA derivatives had different effects on wound closure. This study provides a new strategy to enhance cell collagen production and wound healing using glycinamide in combination with AA.

We describe a swellable microneedle (SMN) consisting of Ca 2+ cross-linked alginate, which expands the types of natural polymers available for SMN fabrication. After investigation of different fabrication methods, the alginate in situ hydrogel-based SMN with a flat substrate was successfully constructed, whose gelation was triggered by ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid calcium disodium salt and D-(+)-glucono-1,5-lactone. With the addition of polyvinyl alcohol and trehalose, SMN possessed good mechanical properties. The biocompatibility of SMN was demonstrated through the tests of in vitro cytotoxicity and in vivo skin irritation. With the assistance of SMN, the in vitro transdermal delivery efficiencies of drugs were significantly improved throughout 16 h. 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid (EAA, pH = 4.81) exhibited a cumulative release of up to 83.83 ± 6.30%, which was consistent with zero-order kinetics, while tranexamic acid (TA, pH = 6.90) showed the most significant increase in delivery efficiency, which was consistent with the Higuchi model and Ritger-Peppas model. The SMN remained intact after the 16 h of EAA transdermal delivery, indicating its better suitability for acidic drugs. We believe that this technology has the potential to expand the range of drugs available for transdermal administration as well as the breadth of patient care applications.

Arbutin, niacinamide and 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid (a new generation of vitamin C derivatives) are compounds that have a whitening effect on skin and are widely used in whitening cream products wherein parabens such as methyl paraben, ethyl paraben, propyl paraben and butyl paraben are also often added as preservatives. This study aims to develop a validated high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) method that can be used to determine arbutin, niacinamide and 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid simultaneously in whitening cream products without interference from the parabens. The optimum conditions for the HPLC system were obtained using ODS-3 RP-C18 Inertsil column, mobile phase consisting of a mixture of aquabides, methanol and acetonitrile with gradient elution mode. Detection was carried out using a UV detector at 220 nm. Validation studies demonstrated a good linearity for all analytes over each range concentration with a correlation coefficient >0.999 and Vx0 < 2%. The accuracy test also met the requirements with the recoveries being 96.93-99.55%, 98.60-99.73% and 97.88-100.63% for arbutin, niacinamide and 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid, respectively. Intra-day and inter-day precision test gave a relative standard deviation (% RSD) of <2% along with a HorRat value of <2 for all analytes. The results of this study indicate that the developed HPLC method has a good selectivity, linearity, accuracy and precision. Due to its simplicity, the method can be used to analyze arbutin, niacinamide and 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid in the presence of parabens in whitening cream products simultaneously.

3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid (EAA) is an ether-derivative of ascorbic acid, known to inhibit tyrosinase activity, and is widely used in skincare formulations. Nevertheless, the molecular mechanisms underlying the EAA's effects are poorly understood. Here, the anti-melanogenic activity of EAA was demonstrated through Nrf2-mediated α-MSH inhibition in UVA-irradiated keratinocytes (HaCaT) and autophagy induction and inhibition of α-MSH-stimulated melanogenesis in melanocytes (B16F10). EAA pretreatment increased the HaCaT cell viability but suppressed ROS-mediated p53/POMC/α-MSH pathways in UVA-irradiated cells. Further, the conditioned medium from EAA-pretreated and UVA-irradiated HaCaT cells suppressed the MITF-CREB-tyrosinase pathways leading to the inhibition of melanin synthesis in B16F10 cells. EAA treatment increased nuclear Nrf2 translocation via the p38, PKC, and ROS pathways leading to HO-1, γ-GCLC, and NQO-1 antioxidant expression in HaCaT cells. However, Nrf2 silencing reduced the EAA-mediated anti-melanogenic activity, evidenced by impaired antioxidant gene expression and uncontrolled ROS (H 2 0 2 ) generation following UVA irradiation. In B16F10 cells, EAA-induced autophagy was shown by enhanced LC3-II levels, AVO formation, Beclin-1 upregulation, and activation of p62/SQSTM1. Further, EAA-induced anti-melanogenic activity was substantially decreased in autophagy inhibitor (3-MA) pretreated or LC3 knockdown B16F10 cells. Notably, transmission electron microscopy data showed increased melanosome-engulfing autophagosomes in EAA-treated B16F10 cells. Moreover, EAA also down-regulated MC1R, TRP-1/-2, tyrosinase expressions, and melanin synthesis by suppressing the cAMP-CREB-mediated MITF expression in B16F10 cells stimulated with α-MSH. In vivo studies on the zebrafish model further confirmed that EAA inhibited tyrosinase expression/activity and endogenous pigmentation. In conclusion, 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid is an effective skin-whitening agent and could be used as a topical agent for cosmetic purposes.

l-ascorbic acid (AA), commonly known as vitamin C, has been widely used in topical formulations for many years as an antioxidant and anti-aging ingredient. However, the physicochemical properties of AA are not optimal for skin uptake and the molecule is also unstable, readily undergoing oxidation on exposure to air. The compound 3-o-ethyl-l-ascorbic acid (EA) has been developed as a stable vitamin C derivative and has been used in topical products. The aims of this work were to conduct a comprehensive characterisation of physicochemical properties of EA as well as to investigate the influence of various neat solvents on EA skin delivery. Nuclear magnetic resonance (NMR), mass spectroscopy, differential scanning calorimetry (DSC) and thermogravimetric analysis (TGA) were used to characterise the molecule. The pK a of the compound and the partition coefficient logP (o/w) were experimentally determined. A new HPLC method for analysis of the molecule was also developed and validated. A number of solvents for topical preparations were selected based on their wide use as excipients in topical formulations, their potential to act as skin penetration enhancers and their favourable safety profiles. The solubility and stability of EA was examined. Skin permeation of the molecule in full thickness porcine skin in vitro was investigated using Franz-type diffusion cells. The melting point, log P (o/w) value and pK a value of EA were determined to be 114.39 ± 0.5 °C, -1.07 ± 0.03 and 7.72 ± 0.01 respectively. Skin penetration of EA was evident for the following vehicles 1,2 hexanediol (HEX), glycerol (GLY), propylene glycol (PG), 1,2 pentanediol (1-2P), isopropyl alcohol (IPA), propylene glycol monolaurate (PGML) and propylene glycol monocaprylate (PGMC). Skin uptake but no permeation through the skin was observed for Transcutol® (TC) and dipropylene glycol (DiPG), while no penetration was observed for the solvents 1,5 pentanediol (1-5P) and tripropylene glycol (TriPG). The findings of the permeation experiments confirm the potential of simple formulations to deliver EA to the skin. Studies are ongoing to identify complex vehicles for synergistic enhancement of EA skin penetration. To our knowledge this is the first study to conduct a comprehensive characterization of EA and examine its skin uptake and permeation properties in porcine skin.