# 3-O-ETHYL ASCORBIC ACID (3-o-ethyl-ascorbic-acid) — Global Cosmetic Regulatory & Formulation Monograph

- **Canonical URL**: https://www.inciname.com/en/ingredients/3-o-ethyl-ascorbic-acid
- **Standard INCI**: `3-O-ETHYL ASCORBIC ACID`
- **KR MFDS Standard Name**: `3-O-에틸아스코빅애씨드`
- **CAS No.**: `86404-04-8`
- **EC / EINECS No.**: `N/A`
- **Origin**: `vitamin`
- **Functions**: 피부컨디셔닝제
- **Molecular Formula / MW**: `C8H12O6` (204.18 g/mol)

## 1. 7-Track Official Regulatory Label Names
| Track | Official Label Nomenclature |
| :--- | :--- |
| KR (MFDS Standard) | 3-O-에틸아스코빅애씨드 |
| KR (Former Names) | — |
| EU (CosIng 1223/2009) | 3-O-ETHYL ASCORBIC ACID |
| US (PCPC / MoCRA INCI) | 3-O-ETHYL ASCORBIC ACID |
| US (FDA OTC Monograph) | — |
| CN (NMPA IECIC) | 3-邻-乙基抗坏血酸 |
| JP (JCIA / MHLW QD) | ３－Ｏ－エチルアスコルビン酸 (QD: ３－Ｏ－エチルアスコルビン酸) |

## 2. Layer 1 — Global 6-Region Statutory Summary
- **KR (MFDS)**: `noted`
- **EU (1223/2009)**: `none`
- **US (FDA/MoCRA)**: `none`
- **CN (NMPA IECIC)**: `allowed` (Entry: `50`)
- **JP (MHLW)**: `none`
- **ASEAN (ACD)**: `none`



## 3. Layer 2 — Toxicological & Historical Safe Use Concentrations
- **cn_iecic_max** (leave_on): ≤ 3% — NMPA IECIC (2025) Entry 00018 (2025)
- **cn_iecic_max** (rinse_off): ≤ 2% — NMPA IECIC (2025) Entry 00018 (2025)

## 4. Layer 3 — Formulation Quartiles & Compatibility
- **Optimal pH Window**: 4 – 5.5
- **Max Process Temp**: ≤ 50°C
- **Synergy Pairings**: FERULIC ACID, TOCOPHEROL, GLUTATHIONE, NIACINAMIDE, TRANEXAMIC ACID
- **Incompatibilities**: Stable at pH 4.0~5.5; yellows above pH 6.0. Always include a chelator (Sodium Phytate or EDTA) and Sodium Citrate buffer. (Note: Unlike SAP which requires pH 6.5~7.5, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid requires weakly acidic pH 4.0~5.5)

## 5. Academic Monograph
■ [1. Chemical Identity & International Labeling Nomenclature]
  - INCI Name: 3-O-ETHYL ASCORBIC ACID | CAS No.: 86404-04-8 | EC No.: N/A
  - Origin: VITAMIN | Functions: Skin Conditioning
  - Physicochemical Profile: Formula C8H12O6 | MW 204.18 g/mol | LogP -1.07 | Ionic Nature: non-ionic | PubChem CID 151581
  - Official Regional Label Names: US [3-O-ETHYL ASCORBIC ACID] · EU [3-O-ETHYL ASCORBIC ACID] · CN [3-邻-乙基抗坏血酸] · JP [３－Ｏ－エチルアスコルビン酸] · JP Quasi-Drug [３－Ｏ－エチルアスコルビン酸]
■ [2. Dermatological Mechanism of Action & Functional Role]
  - Amphiphilic 3-O-ethyl ether derivative of L-ascorbic acid where the reactive C3 hydroxyl group is protected against ionization and oxidative browning. Exhibits superior thermal and photostability alongside enhanced stratum corneum penetration and potent tyrosinase inhibition.
■ [3. Global 6-Jurisdiction Regulatory Status & Safety Limits (Layer 1 & Layer 2)]
  - Regional Summary: KR: NOTED | EU: NONE | US: NONE | CN: ALLOWED | JP: NONE | ASEAN: NONE (CN IECIC (2025) Entry No. 50 (3-邻-乙基抗坏血酸))
  - [KR / CLAIM / noted]: 
  - Official Safety & Historical Use Concentration (Layer 2): CN_IECIC_2025 (cn_iecic_max, leave_on): Max 3.0% / CN_IECIC_2025 (cn_iecic_max, rinse_off): Max 2.0%
■ [4. Formulation Dosage Guide by Product Category (Layer 3-A)]
  - [aqueous_serum] Typical range: 0.5 ~ 5.0% (Median 2.0%, Ref: MFDS Functional Cosmetics Notice Annex 4 & Corum Et-VC Monograph) — Amphiphilic ultra-stable Vitamin C ether (KR MFDS Brightening 1.0~2.0%)
  - [emulsion_cream] Typical range: 0.5 ~ 3.0% (Median 2.0%, Ref: MFDS Functional Cosmetics Notice & CN IECIC) — Non-browning Vitamin C brightening & collagen-boosting cream active
■ [5. Formulation Engineering, Stability & Incompatibility Matrix (Layer 3-B)]
  - Addition Phase: Cool-down Phase (< 45°C; Adjust pH to 4.0~5.5 with Citric Acid/Sodium Citrate buffer)
  - Optimal pH Range: pH 4.0 ~ 5.5 | Max Process Temp: Max 50°C | Electrolyte Tolerance: MEDIUM
  - Incompatibility / Caution: Stable at pH 4.0~5.5; yellows above pH 6.0. Always include a chelator (Sodium Phytate or EDTA) and Sodium Citrate buffer. (Note: Unlike SAP which requires pH 6.5~7.5, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid requires weakly acidic pH 4.0~5.5)
  - Synergy Pairings: FERULIC ACID, TOCOPHEROL, GLUTATHIONE, NIACINAMIDE, TRANEXAMIC ACID | Reference Trade Names: Et-VC™ (Corum), VC-IP / Amitose
■ [6. Peer-Reviewed Literature & Official Compendia Evidence]
  - PMID 42274558 (2026, Cells): Proteomic Analysis of the Metabolic Response of UVA-Exposed Melanocytes Following Co-Treatment with Cannabigerol and 3-O
  - PMID 41628877 (2026, Int J Biol Macromol): Thermostable hyaluronic acid-based dissolving microneedles with high-loading capacity: design, optimization, and transde
  - PMID 39647320 (2024, Biomed Pharmacother): Skin cells protection against UVA radiation - The comparison of various antioxidants and viability tests

## 6. Linked PubMed Literature
- [PMID: 42274558] Proteomic Analysis of the Metabolic Response of UVA-Exposed Melanocytes Following Co-Treatment with Cannabigerol and 3-O-Ethylascorbic Acid — *Cells* (2026)
- [PMID: 41628877] Thermostable hyaluronic acid-based dissolving microneedles with high-loading capacity: design, optimization, and transdermal delivery of anti-aging ingredients — *Int J Biol Macromol* (2026)
- [PMID: 39647320] Skin cells protection against UVA radiation - The comparison of various antioxidants and viability tests — *Biomed Pharmacother* (2024)
- [PMID: 39537961] Proteomic analysis of the combined effects of cannabigerol and 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid on kinase-dependent signalling in UVB-irradiated human keratinocytes — *Sci Rep* (2024)
- [PMID: 39339223] Lipid-Based Gels for Delivery of 3-O-Ethyl L-Ascorbic acid in Topical Applications — *Pharmaceutics* (2024)
- [PMID: 37652708] The Anti-Inflammatory Action of Cannabigerol Accompanied by the Antioxidant Effect of 3-O-ethyl Ascorbic Acid in UVA-Irradiated Human Keratinocytes — *J Pharmacol Exp Ther* (2023)
- [PMID: 35625765] Combination of Glycinamide and Ascorbic Acid Synergistically Promotes Collagen Production and Wound Healing in Human Dermal Fibroblasts — *Biomedicines* (2022)
- [PMID: 35306152] Process optimization of Ca(2+) cross-linked alginate-based swellable microneedles for enhanced transdermal permeability: More applicable to acidic drugs — *Int J Pharm* (2022)
- [PMID: 35098294] Simultaneous HPLC Determination of Arbutin, Niacinamide and 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid in Whitening Cream Products in the Presence of Parabens — *J Chromatogr Sci* (2023)
- [PMID: 34314818] The anti-melanogenic effects of 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid via Nrf2-mediated α-MSH inhibition in UVA-irradiated keratinocytes and autophagy induction in melanocytes — *Free Radic Biol Med* (2021)
- [PMID: 31517290] 3-O-ethyl-l-ascorbic acid: Characterisation and investigation of single solvent systems for delivery to the skin — *Int J Pharm X* (2019)
- [PMID: 31066077] A new case of allergic contact dermatitis caused by 3-o-ethyl ascorbic acid in facial antiageing cosmetics — *Contact Dermatitis* (2019)