BUTYROSPERMUM PARKII BUTTER

Diaper dermatitis (DD) is an acute inflammatory reaction, regardless of the cause, of the diaper-covered area. Topical skin barrier repair cosmetic products are the mainstay treatment to cure and/or prevent DD. To assess the efficacy/tolerability of a zinc gluconate-taurine/zinc oxide and panthenol/ glycerin/ Butyrospermum parkii butter barrier cream using clinical evaluation. In this prospective, open-label trial, 20 patients (10 infants/10 adults), with mild/moderate DD enrolled at the Dermatology University Clinic of Catania (Italy) were instructed to apply the cream twice daily for 30 days. Degree of erythema was performed clinically by a 5-point severity scale (from 0 = no erythema to 4 = severe erythema), at baseline, at 15 and 30 days. An Investigator Global Assessment (IGA) using a 6-point scale (from -1 = worsening to 4 = complete response/clear) along with product tolerability was also performed at 15 and 30 days. Statistical analysis was performed using SAS version 9. At 15 days, a reduction of clinical erythema assessment (CEA) from baseline was observed (mean from 3.2 ± 0.8 to 2.5 ± 0.3; p < 0.06), that although nonsignificant, showed a significant progressive improvement at 30 days (mean from 3.2 ± 0.8 to 1.1 ± 0.9; p < 0.0001) without any age differences. Our preliminary results indicate that the tested barrier cream may represent a promising approach in DD rash. It may be used in mild-to-moderate forms in monotherapy without significant side effects or, where required, in association with pharmacological agents. Its long-term use is likely safe.

Intertrigo is a recurrent inflammatory dermatosis involving large/small body folds. Skin barrier products represent the mainstay of treatment in uncomplicated mild/moderate intertrigo. To assess by clinical and instrumental evaluation the efficacy and tolerability of a new barrier spray containing zinc gluconate-taurine complex and zinc oxide combined with panthenol, glycerin, and Shea (Butyrospermum parkii) butter in mild-to-moderate intertrigo in athletes and overweight subjects. In this open-label prospective trial, 20 adult patients, with mild/moderate intertrigo enrolled at the Dermatology University Clinic of Catania (Italy), were instructed to apply the spray twice daily for 30 days. Degree of erythema was performed clinically and by polarized dermoscopy using a 5-point severity scale (from 0=no erythema to 4=severe erythema) at baseline, and at 15 and 30 days. The measurement of pruritus was carried out by a subject-completed visual analog scale (VAS) (from 0 mm=no pruritus to 100 mm=severe pruritus), at all time points. An Investigator Global Assessment (IGA) using a 6-point scale (from -1=worsening to 4=complete response/clear) was also conducted at 30 days, along with a self-administered tolerability questionnaire. Statistical analysis was performed using SAS version 9. At 15 days, a statically significant reduction from baseline in erythema severity (mean from 3.4 ± 0.3 to 2.5 ± 0.2) along with pruritus intensity (mean from 70 ± 15.4 mm to 40 ± 9.5 mm) was observed. At 30 days, all evaluated parameters showed a further progressive statistically significant reduction from baseline. No relevant side effects were recorded. Our results suggest that the tested spay containing antiseptic/anti-inflammatory and anti-irritation agents may represent a valid therapeutic option for mild/moderate intertrigo.

Ultraviolet (UV) radiation exposure is related to skin and lip tumors. Therefore, the development of photoprotective lipstick formulations is of utmost importance. Considering the biological properties of Shea butter (Butyrospermum parkii), we assessed its potential as an adjuvant in a molded lipstick sunscreen system by in vivo tests and photostability. Shea butter was used in a photoprotective lipstick formulation at two different concentrations (10.0% and 15.0% w/w) associated with ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate (EHM) and titanium dioxide. Skin compatibility was assessed in vivo. The in vivo SPF value was determined according to the current recognized method. Additionally, the photostability of EHM was determined by high-performance liquid chromatography. By the cutaneous compatibility, the product presented no interference with skin barrier and no adverse reactions, thus proving its safety. The in vivo SPF assay showed that the highest concentration of Shea butter increased the in vivo SPF value of the sample by 35%, demonstrating it to be a booster in photoprotective lipstick formulations. Also, Shea butter was proved to enhance the photostability of EHM, a commonly used UVB filter available in several countries. Shea butter increased the photostability and in vivo SPF of a molded lipstick sunscreen.

The development of photoprotective lipsticks containing natural bioactive compounds is a relevant current strategy to increase sun protection factor (SPF) value and lower the concentration of chemical UV filters, known for promoting sensitivity reactions. Twelve photoprotective lipsticks were developed by Design of Experiment (DOE) and characterized to verify the influence of Shea butter (Butyrospermum parkii), titanium dioxide (TiO 2 ), and ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate (EHM) on physical parameters and in vitro photoprotective efficacy. The influence of Shea butter, TiO 2, and EHM was evaluated by several parameters, such as melting point, colorimetry, thermal analysis by DSC, texture analysis, and sunscreen activity estimated in vitro. The construction of prediction models was possible for the following responses: maximum force by the cantilever test at 25 and 45°C; maximum distance by hardness test at 25°C; slope value at 25 and 45°C by the cantilever test; and UVA/UVB ratio and in vitro SPF. TiO 2 and EHM contributed to changes on the in vitro SPF value; however, unexpectedly, Shea butter had no influence on this efficacy parameter. The assay allowed us to observe the influence of the variables in the analysis and to develop a response prediction model for some of the parameters assessed.

The distribution of fatty acid species at the sn-1/3 position or the sn-2 position of triacylglycerols (TAGs) in natural fats and oils affects their physical and nutritional properties. In fats and oils, determining the presence of one or two regioisomers and the identification of structure, where they do have one, as well as their separation, became a problem of fundamental importance to solve. A variety of instrumental technics has been proposed, such as MS, chromatography-MS or pure chromatography. A number of studies deal with the optimization of the separation, but very often, they are expensive in time. In the present study, in order to decrease the analysis time while maintaining good chromatographic separation, we tested different monomeric and polymeric stationary phases and different chromatographic conditions (mobile phase composition and analysis temperature) using Non-Aqueous Reversed Phase Liquid Chromatography (NARP-LC). It was demonstrated that mixed polymeric stationary bonded silica with accessible terminal hydroxyl groups leads to very good separation for the pairs of TAGs regioisomers constituted by two saturated and one unsaturated fatty acid (with double bond number: from 1 to 6). A Nucleodur C18 ISIS percolated by isocratic mobile phase (acetonitrile/2-propanol) at 18°C leads to their separations in less than 15min. The difference of retention times between two regioisomers XYX and XXY are large enough to confirm, as application, the presence of POP, SOP, SOS and PLP and no PPO, SPO, SSO and PPL in Theobroma cacao butter. In the same way, this study respectively shows the presence of SOS, SOP and no SSO, PSO in Butyrospermum parkii butter, POP, SOP, SOS and no PPO, PSO and SSO in Carapa oil and finally POP and no PPO in Pistacia Lentiscus oil.