AMMONIUM LAURYL SULFATE

Our skin is continuously exposed to different amphiphilic substances capable of interaction with its lipids and proteins. We describe the effect of a saponin-rich soapwort extract and of four commonly employed synthetic surfactants: sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS), sodium laureth sulfate (SLES), ammonium lauryl sulfate (ALS), cocamidopropyl betaine (CAPB) on different human skin models. Two human skin cell lines were employed: normal keratinocytes (HaCaT) and human melanoma cells (A375). The liposomes consisting of a dipalmitoylphosphatidylcholine/cholesterol mixture in a molar ratio of 7:3, mimicking the cell membrane of keratinocytes and melanoma cells were employed as the second model. Using dynamic light scattering (DLS), the particle size distribution of liposomes was analyzed before and after contact with the tested (bio)surfactants. The results, supplemented by the protein solubilization tests (albumin denaturation test, zein test) and oil emulsification capacity (using olive oil and engine oil), showed that the soapwort extract affects the skin models to a clearly different extent than any of the tested synthetic surfactants. Its protein and lipid solubilizing potential are much smaller than for the three anionic surfactants (SLS, ALS, SLES). In terms of protein solubilization potential, the soapwort extract is comparable to CAPB, which, however, is much harsher to lipids.

Sodium cetearyl sulfate is the sodium salt of a mixture of cetyl and stearyl sulfate. The other ingredients in this safety assessment are also alkyl salts, including ammonium coco-sulfate, ammonium myristyl sulfate, magnesium coco-sulfate, sodium cetyl sulfate, sodium coco/hydrogenated tallow sulfate, sodium coco-sulfate, sodium decyl sulfate, sodium ethylhexyl sulfate, sodium myristyl sulfate, sodium oleyl sulfate, sodium stearyl sulfate, sodium tallow sulfate, sodium tridecyl sulfate, and zinc coco-sulfate. These ingredients are surfactants used at concentrations from 0.1% to 29%, primarily in soaps and shampoos. Many of these ingredients are not in current use. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel previously completed a safety assessment of sodium and ammonium lauryl sulfate. The data available for sodium lauryl sulfate and ammonium lauryl sulfate provide sufficient basis for concluding that sodium cetearyl sulfate and related alkyl sulfates are safe in the practices of use and concentration described in the safety assessment.

The effects of zinc pyrithione (ZnPT) and sodium pyrithione (NaPT), including the influence of various vehicles, upon whole blood and plasma zinc levels and serum alkaline phosphatase (SAP) have been investigated in rabbits following dermal and/or iv administration. Two such vehicles, ammonium lauryl sulfate (ALS) and triethanolamine lauryl sulfate, affected zinc homeostasis differently than the pyrithiones, in that, unlike the pyrithiones, no whole blood changes were observed, although there were delayed and sustained declines in plasma zinc and SAP values. These changes were most likely related to the skin irritation caused by the surfactants. In contrast, NaPT-dimethyl sulfoxide (DMSO) dermal and iv exposures produced rapid decreases in plasma zinc followed by quick recovery, coupled with smaller and unsustained declines in SAP. Large increases in whole blood zinc were also observed in both cases, as well as in a ZnPT-DMSO iv exposure. DMSO itself had no effects on the measured parameters. Experiments involving combinations of the pyrithiones and ALS demonstrated effects on zinc homeostasis that were attributable to both substances, i.e. large increases in whole blood zinc (PT effect), quick drops in plasma zinc (PT effect) and slowly recovering plasma zinc and SAP values (surfactant effect). The chelating nature of the PT molecule may have been responsible for some of the observed changes in zinc distribution.

Several animal irritancy test methods whose criteria include sensory response, pain/discomfort or tissue damage were evaluated as to their ability to assess relative irritancy potential of the following surfactants: sodium lauryl polyether (12) sulfate (SLES), Miranol C2M (MC2M), Miranol MHT (MMHT), sodium coco methyl tauride (SCMT), triethanolamine lauryl sulfate (TEALS), ammonium lauryl sulfate (ALS) and sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS). Data from the mouse upper respiratory tract and mouse writhing tests indicated that SLES, MC2M and MMHT were the least irritating and SLS, ALS and TEALS were the most irritating. The blepharospasm test did not lend itself to this type of evaluation because sequential instillation of the surfactants produced eye anesthesia. Data from the Draize eye test indicated that SLES was the least irritating while MC2M was slightly more irritating. All other surfactants were equally irritating. The Draize skin test results showed that SLES again was the least irritating at all concentrations tested and that SLS and ALS along with TEALS and SCMT were the most irritating.

Several workers have found that Malassezia are capable of suppressing cytokine release and downregulating the phagocytic function of monocytes. But lipid-depleted Malassezia furfur (M. furfur) extracts have also been shown to induce increased production of TNF-alpha, IL-6 and IL-1beta in monocytes. We thought that the detergents in shampoos or soaps could change the composition of the lipid in the M. furfur cell wall. We studied whether detergents affect the morphology of M. furfur and if the inflammatory cytokine profiles change in the monocytes treated with detergent-treated M. furfur. Commonly used detergents such as sodium lauryl sulfate, ammonium lauryl sulfate and tween-80 were respectively added to the modified Leeming-Notman's media. M. furfur was cultivated in each media (detergent-added or untreated). Thereafter, the surface morphology of the yeast was evaluated by scanning and transmission electron microscopy. The cytokine profiles of monocytes, which were treated by M. furfur with or without detergents, were also evaluated. The detergent-treated M. furfur were similar to the lipid-extracted form of M. furfur on the electron microscopic study, with a recessed, withered surface and with thinner and rather electron transparent cell walls than the detergent-untreated M. furfur. The levels of TNF-alpha were higher in monocytes treated with detergent-treated Malassezia than that in the monocytes treated with the detergent-untreated Malassezia (p<0.05). According to the findings in this study, it could be inferred that the detergents in shampoos or soaps affect the lipid layers of the Malassezia cell wall and these lipid-extracted Malassezia induce or aggravate some inflammatory conditions. But to correlate the relationship between detergents and Malassezia-associated diseases, in vivo experiments that will focus on short-term contact with detergents in real life conditions should be done.