PANTHENOL
화장품에서 판테놀 (PANTHENOL)의 글로벌 배합 한도와 핵심 효능·처방 기준은 무엇인가요?
판테놀(표준 INCI: PANTHENOL, CAS 번호: 81-13-0)은 화장품 처방에서 주로 대전방지제, 모발컨디셔닝제, 피부컨디셔닝제 목적으로 배합되는 핵심 원료입니다. 한국 식약처(표시·고시) 및 유럽 CosIng(미규제) 등 6대 권역 법정 기준 하에 관리되며, 통상 0.2–5%(적정 pH 4.5–6.5) 범위에서 안정적으로 처방됩니다.
7대 갈래 국가별·용도별 공식 전성분 라벨 표기명 매트릭스
각국 1차 법원 고시 정본 · 기계번역·임의 음차 0건| 국가·규제 트랙 | 공식 고시 전성분 표기명 | 원클릭 복사 |
|---|---|---|
| ① 한국 (MFDS 화장품 한글 표준명) | 판테놀 | |
| ② 한국 구명칭 (개정 전 이력 · 301 리다이렉트) | — | — |
| ③ 유럽 (EU CosIng EC 1223/2009) | PANTHENOL | |
| ④ 미국 일반화장품 (US PCPC / MoCRA INCI) | PANTHENOL | |
| ⑤ 미국 OTC (FDA Active Ingredient Monograph) | — (비-OTC 일반 화장품 원료) | — |
| ⑥ 중국 (NMPA IECIC 표준 중문명) | 泛醇 | |
| ⑦ 일본 일반화장품 / 의약부외품 (JCIA / MHLW) | パンテノール · [QD: D-パントテニルアルコール] |
Layer 1 — 글로벌 6대 권역 법정 배합 한도 및 규제 상태
| 권역 | 규제 상태 | 배합 한도 | 제한 조건 및 1차 법원 출처 |
|---|---|---|---|
| 일본 (MHLW) | 제한 | ≤ 8% | — Source: 化粧品に配合可能な医薬品の成分について(薬食審査発第0524001号) 별첨 「承認化粧品成分の範囲」 |
| 한국 (MFDS) | 표시·고시 | — | — Source: 기능성화장품 기준 및 시험방법 [별표9] |
Layer 2 — 독성·안전성 평가 한도 (US CIR · EU SCCS MoS≥100 · CN IECIC 최고역사사용량)
「SCCS 안전 판정 상한」은 유럽 소비자안전과학위원회가 안전역(MoS≥100)으로 판정한 상한이며, 「CIR 시판 보고 농도」와 「중국 IECIC 최고역사사용량」은 실제 시판 제품에 보고된 최대 농도입니다.
| 안전성 평가 기준 | 적용 부위·유형 | 안전 농도 범위 | 판정 결과 및 문헌 번호 |
|---|---|---|---|
| 중국 IECIC 최고역사사용량 | leave_on | ≤ 13% | 안전 판정(MoS≥100)NMPA IECIC (2025) Entry 02153 (2025) |
| 중국 IECIC 최고역사사용량 | rinse_off | ≤ 10% | 안전 판정(MoS≥100)NMPA IECIC (2025) Entry 02153 (2025) |
Layer 3 제형군별 통상 배합 농도(%) 레인지 & Layer 1 법정 한도 대조
Layer 3 — 제형군별 통상 배합 농도(n≥5 사분위수) & 물리화학·상용성 가이드
| 제형군 분류 | Min – Q1 – Median – Q3 – Max (%) | 처방 역할 및 기전 | Source ID |
|---|---|---|---|
| 제형군 A — 수성 토너 · 세럼 · 고농축 앰플 | 0.2% · 0.5% · 1% · 2% · 5% | 프로비타민 B5 수분 결합·진정 및 표피 장벽 재생 | DSM D-Panthenol Monograph & CIR Panthenol Assessment |
| 제형군 B — 유화 로션 · 에멀전 · 크림 (O/W · W/O) | 0.5% · 1% · 2% · 3.5% · 5% | 고함량(3~5%) 시카·장벽 리페어 밤 및 더마 크림 | CIR Panthenol Reported Use & PubMed Clinical Trials |
| 제형군 E — 무수 오일 · 멀티밤 · 립케어 | 0.5% · 0.5% · 0.5% · 0.5% · 0.5% | 무수 밤·스틱·오일 처방 유상 골격 및 보습막 형성 | Global Starter Formulation Library Statistical Distribution (n=5, ELEMENTIS 2 · GRANT 2 · EVONIK 1) |
| 제형군 C — 세정 워시오프 · 폼 · 샴푸 · 바디워시 | 0.1% · 0.2% · 0.2% · 0.2% · 0.5% | 린스오프 세정·클렌징 처방 계면 안정화 및 사용감 개선 | Global Starter Formulation Library Statistical Distribution (n=9, EVONIK 8 · ELEMENTIS 1) |
| 제형군 D — 자외선차단제(선크림) · 색조 · 파운데이션 | 0.1% · 0.5% · 0.5% · 0.5% · 0.5% | 선케어·색조 메이크업 분산 안정화 및 발림성 조절 | Global Starter Formulation Library Statistical Distribution (n=5, GRANT 3 · EVONIK 2) |
각질층 장벽 투과 깊이 & 바이오 스피큘 경피전달(DDS) 시뮬레이션
단독 도포 시 각질층 세포간 지질(Brick & Mortar) 경로를 통해 확산됩니다. 500 Dalton 이상 친수성 분자는 각질층 표면에 주로 머물러 보습·보호막 역할을 수행합니다.
pH 안정성 스펙트럼(0~14) · 가열 한계 게이지 · HLB 콜로이드 상거동
권장 구간 밖(pH < 4.5 또는 pH > 6.5)에서는 가수분해·점도 저하·이온 탈리 위험이 증가합니다.
최대 70°C 가열 공정에서 열적 안정성이 유지됩니다.
세포·분자 타깃 작용 기전 플로우 다이어그램
권장 시너지(🟢 실선) & 배합 금기·주의(🔴 점선) 인터랙티브 관계도
🟢 초록색 시너지 원료 노드를 클릭하면 해당 원료 모노그래프로 즉시 이동하며, 🔴 붉은색 점선 노드를 클릭하면 화학적 상충(석출·변색·실활) 메커니즘을 표시합니다.
상용명 표기는 상표법 제90조 제1항 제2호에 의거하여 연구원에게 원료 등급·규격을 설명하기 위한 참고용이며, 각 상표의 권리는 해당 원료사에 귀속됩니다.
학술·독성·제형 종합 요약 (Tier 1~3 탄력 요약)
Tier 1 Synthesis이 원료에 매칭된 PubMed 동료심사 논문 초록과 공인 독성 보고서만으로 작성된 학술 요약입니다.
근거 동료심사 학술 논문 (미국 NIH PubMed) (18)
Topical use of dexpanthenol in skin disorders [PMID: 12113650 · 2002]
Pantothenic acid is essential to normal epithelial function. It is a component of coenzyme A, which serves as a cofactor for a variety of enzyme-catalyzed reactions that are important in the metabolism of carbohydrates, fatty acids, proteins, gluconeogenesis, sterols, steroid hormones, and porphyrins. The topical use of dexpanthenol, the stable alcoholic analog of pantothenic acid, is based on good skin penetration and high local concentrations of dexpanthenol when administered in an adequate vehicle, such as water-in-oil emulsions. Topical dexpanthenol acts like a moisturizer, improving stratum corneum hydration, reducing transepidermal water loss and maintaining skin softness and elasticity. Activation of fibroblast proliferation, which is of relevance in wound healing, has been observed both in vitro and in vivo with dexpanthenol. Accelerated re-epithelization in wound healing, monitored by means of the transepidermal water loss as an indicator of the intact epidermal barrier function, has also been seen. Dexpanthenol has been shown to have an anti-inflammatory effect on experimental ultraviolet-induced erythema. Beneficial effects of dexpanthenol have been observed in patients who have undergone skin transplantation or scar treatment, or therapy for burn injuries and different dermatoses. The stimulation of epithelization, granulation and mitigation of itching were the most prominent effects of formulations containing dexpanthenol. In double-blind placebo-controlled clinical trials, dexpanthenol was evaluated for its efficacy in improving wound healing. Epidermal wounds treated with dexpanthenol emulsion showed a reduction in erythema, and more elastic and solid tissue regeneration. Monitoring of transepidermal water loss showed a significant acceleration of epidermal regeneration as a result of dexpanthenol therapy, as compared with the vehicle. In an irritation model, pretreatment with dexpanthenol cream resulted in significantly less damage to the stratum corneum barrier, compared with no pretreatment. Adjuvant skin care with dexpanthenol considerably improved the symptoms of skin irritation, such as dryness of the skin, roughness, scaling, pruritus, erythema, erosion/fissures, over 3 to 4 weeks. Usually, the topical administration of dexpanthenol preparations is well tolerated, with minimal risk of skin irritancy or sensitization.
Topical use of dexpanthenol: a 70th anniversary article [PMID: 28503966 · 2017]
Approximately 70 years ago, the first topical dexpanthenol-containing formulation (Bepanthen™ Ointment) has been developed. Nowadays, various topical dexpanthenol preparations exist, tailored according to individual requirements. Topical dexpanthenol has emerged as frequently used formulation in the field of dermatology and skin care. Various studies confirmed dexpanthenol's moisturizing and skin barrier enhancing potential. It prevents skin irritation, stimulates skin regeneration and promotes wound healing. Two main directions in the use of topical dexpanthenol-containing formulations have therefore been pursued: as skin moisturizer/skin barrier restorer and as facilitator of wound healing. This 70th anniversary paper reviews studies with topical dexpanthenol in skin conditions where it is most frequently used. Although discovered decades ago, the exact mechanisms of action of dexpanthenol have not been fully elucidated yet. With the adoption of new technologies, new light has been shed on dexpanthenol's mode of action at the molecular level. It appears that dexpanthenol increases the mobility of stratum corneum molecular components which are important for barrier function and modulates the expression of genes important for wound healing. This review will update readers on recent advances in this field.
Prebiotic and panthenol-containing dermocosmetic improves tolerance from artificial daylight photodynamic therapy: A randomized controlled trial in patients with actinic keratosis [PMID: 39528008 · 2024]
Treatment with daylight photodynamic therapy (dPDT) of actinic keratosis (AK) is associated with local skin reactions (LSR), which may affect patients' quality of life and treatment acceptability. This study explores the potential of a prebiotic and panthenol-containing Dermocosmetic Cream (DC) to enhance tolerance and mitigate post-dPDT induced LSR in the treatment of AKs. This randomized controlled, intra-individual trial included 20 patients with ≥10 AKs in two symmetrical areas on their face or décolleté, treated with a single session of artificial dPDT. After treatment, the two areas were randomized to DC twice daily for 14 days or No-DC. Primary outcomes included clinical signs of LSR graded from 0=none to 3=severe, calculated as a composite score, and assessed on Days 2, 7, 14, and 30 post-treatment, along with AK clearance rate. Secondary outcomes encompassed objectively measured erythema, and clinical and objective skin photoaging assessment. Topical application of DC following dPDT significantly improved post-treatment tolerance up to two weeks. By Day 2, DC-treated skin had milder LSR (median 3.0, IQR 2.0-4.8) compared to No-DC skin (median 4.0, IQR 3.0-5.0; p=0.011). This improvement continued on Day 7 (DC median 3.0, IQR 2.0-3.8 vs. No-DC median 4.5, IQR 3.0-5.8; p<0.001) and Day 14 (DC median 1.0, IQR 0.0-1.0 vs. No-DC median 1.0, IQR 1.0-2.0; p=0.004). Objective measurements showed milder erythema in DC-treated areas on Day 2 (p=0.045) and Day 7 (p=0.005). Crusting resolved more effectively in DC-treated areas by Day 7 (40% vs. 20%; p=0.039). No significant difference in complete lesion response rate was observed between DC and No-DC skin (p=0.850). By Day 30, clinical photoaging assessment demonstrated significant improvement in dyspigmentation (p=0.004) and skin texture (p<0.001) in both locations. Moreover, objective measurements revealed reduced dyspigmentation in both DC and No-DC treated skin (p≤0.001). Application of a prebiotic and panthenol-containing multipurpose DC significantly enhanced tolerance from artificial dPDT and accelerated healing time up to 14 days after treatment. The use of DC cream did not affect the overall treatment efficacy of dPDT, indicating its potential to enhance patient comfort following dPDT.
Dexpanthenol in Wound Healing after Medical and Cosmetic Interventions (Postprocedure Wound Healing) [PMID: 32610604 · 2020]
With the availability of new technologies, the number of subjects undergoing medical and cosmetic interventions is increasing. Many procedures (e.g., ablative fractional laser treatment) resulting in superficial/minor wounds require appropriate aftercare to prevent complications in wound healing and poor cosmetic outcome. We review the published evidence of the usefulness of topical dexpanthenol in postprocedure wound healing and the associated mechanisms of action at the molecular level. A search in the PubMed and Embase databases was performed to query the terms dexpanthenol, panthenol, superficial wound, minor wound, wound healing, skin repair, and postprocedure. Search results were categorized as clinical trials and in vitro studies. In vitro and clinical studies provided evidence that topically applied dexpanthenol promotes superficial and postprocedure wound healing. Latest findings confirmed that dexpanthenol upregulates genes that are critical for the healing process. The gene expression data are of clinical relevance as evidenced by prospective clinical studies indicating that topical dexpanthenol accelerates wound healing with rapid re-epithelialization and restoration of skin barrier function following skin injury. It can therefore be inferred that topical dexpanthenol represents an appropriate and state-of-the-art treatment option for superficial postprocedure wounds, especially when applied early after the superficial skin damage.
Use of Dexpanthenol for Atopic Dermatitis-Benefits and Recommendations Based on Current Evidence [PMID: 35887707 · 2022]
Atopic dermatitis (AD) is an inflammatory skin disease of multiple phenotypes and endotypes, and is highly prevalent in children. Many people of all ages, including active adolescents, pregnant women, and the elderly, suffer from AD, experiencing chronicity, flares, and unexpected relapse. Dexpanthenol has multiple pharmacological effects and has been employed to treat various skin disorders such as AD. We aimed to summarize the up-to-date evidence relating to dexpanthenol and to provide a consensus on how to use dexpanthenol effectively for the treatment of AD. The evidence to date on the application and efficacy of dexpanthenol in AD was reviewed. The literature search focused on dexpanthenol use and the improvement of skin barrier function, the prevention of acute flares, and its topical corticosteroid (TCS) sparing effects. Evidence and recommendations for special groups such as pregnant women, and the effects of dexpanthenol and emollient plus in maintenance therapy, were also summarized. Dexpanthenol is effective and well-tolerated for the treatment of AD. Dexpanthenol improves skin barrier function, reduces acute and frequent flares, has a significant TCS sparing effect, and enhances wound healing for skin lesions. This review article provides helpful advice for clinicians and patients on the proper maintenance treatment of AD. Dexpanthenol, as an active ingredient in ointments or emollients, is suitable for the treatment and maintenance of AD. This paper will guide dermatologists and clinicians to consider dexpanthenol as a treatment option for mild to moderate AD.
Skin moisturizing effects of panthenol-based formulations [PMID: 21982351 · 2011]
This study aims to evaluate the skin moisturizing efficacy of formulations containing different concentrations of panthenol. Formulations supplemented with or without 0.5%, 1.0%, or 5.0% panthenol were applied daily to the forearms of healthy subjects. Skin conditions in terms of moisture and transepidermal water loss (TEWL) were analyzed before and after 15- and 30-day periods of application. The formulations were also applied after skin washing with sodium laureth sulphate (SLES) to evaluate the immediate effects on TEWL and skin moisture. Panthenol-containing formulations (1.0% and 5.0%) produced significant decreases in TEWL after 30-day applications. In skin washed with SLES, significant reduction of TEWL was evident two hours after application of formulations loaded with panthenol when compared with control and vehicle. It is concluded that skin integrity is maintained by the improved protective effect of 1.0% panthenol added to the formulation.
Efficacy of a Topical Formulation on Skin Hydration and Barrier Function in Individuals With Xerosis: A 28-Day Randomized, Split-Leg, Untreated-Controlled Trial [PMID: 42108609 · 2026]
Xerosis cutis is characterized by impaired epidermal barrier function, increased transepidermal water loss (TEWL), reduced hydration, and symptoms such as pruritus. To evaluate the efficacy, tolerability, and subjective perception of a topical formulation containing panthenol, niacinamide, and dipotassium glycyrrhizate in improving skin hydration and barrier function in subjects with dry, sensitive skin. In this randomized, intra-individual, split-leg clinical trial, subjects with xerosis applied the test emollient twice daily for 28 days to one pretibial area. The contralateral leg remained untreated as control. Assessments were performed at baseline (T0), 30 min, 24 h, 48 h, day 7 and day 28. Primary outcomes were corneometric stratum corneum hydration and TEWL. Secondary outcomes included deep skin conductance ("deep moisturization"), desquamation index, surface microrelief regularity (SEr), scaliness (SEsc), dermatologist-rated clinical signs, and participant self-assessment. Thirty-five participants (31 women; mean age 47.3 ± 2.0 years) were included. Compared with baseline (hydration: 21.3 ± 1.0 c.u., 95% CI: 19.3-23.3; TEWL: 9.2 ± 0.3 g/h/m 2 , 95% CI: 8.6-9.8) and untreated control, the treated leg showed greater corneometric hydration at all time points: 66.2% (33.9 ± 1.4 c.u., 95% CI: 31.1-36.7) at day 7 and 74.1% (35.2 ± 1.2 c.u., 95% CI: 32.8-37.6) at day 28 (all p < 0.001). TEWL decreased by 11.3% (8.2 ± 0.2 g/h/m 2 , 95% CI: 7.8-8.6) and 13.5% (7.9 ± 0.2 g/h/m 2 , 95% CI: 7.5-8.3), respectively (all p < 0.05). Deep moisturization increased by 5.7% (39.5 ± 0.9 μS at day 7, 95% CI: 37.7-41.3) and 7.3% (41.1 ± 0.8 μS at day 28, 95% CI: 39.5-42.7) (p < 0.05). The desquamation index decreased by 13.0% (29.50% ± 1.67% at day 7, 95% CI: 26.1-32.9) and 15.8% (26.77% ± 1.25% at day 28, 95% CI: 24.2-29.3), SEr increased by 46.9% (3.38 ± 0.15 a.u. at day 7, 95% CI: 3.08-3.68) and 54.2% (3.47 ± 0.15 a.u. at day 28, 95% CI: 3.17-3.77), and SEsc decreased by 67.0% (0.81 ± 0.12 a.u. at day 7, 95% CI: 0.57-1.05) and 76.3% (0.51 ± 0.07 a.u. at day 28, 95% CI: 0.37-0.65), respectively (all p < 0.05). Dermatologist assessments at all time points showed significant clinical improvement in dryness and pruritus in all participants (p < 0.001). Complete resolution was observed in all participants according to the 5-point scale, though this may reflect a floor effect given mild baseline scores. The topical formulation appeared to be an effective and well-tolerated emollient; however, the absence of a vehicle control precludes attribution of effects specifically to the active ingredients. Patient-reported outcomes should be interpreted with caution due to the unblinded design.
A Prebiotic and Panthenol-Containing Repair Balm Improves Tolerability of Topical 5-Fluorouracil Field Therapy for Actinic Keratoses: A Randomised Controlled Trial [PMID: 42053970 · 2026]
Topical 5-fluorouracil (5-FU) is an effective field therapy for actinic keratoses (AKs) with proven chemopreventive benefit; however, treatment-limiting local skin reactions frequently impair tolerability and adherence in clinical practice. Our objective is to determine whether adjunctive use of a prebiotic and panthenol-containing repair balm (BB5+ repair balm) improves tolerability and treatment adherence to topical 5-FU field therapy for AKs compared with standard of care alone. We conducted a single-blind, randomised controlled trial involving adults prescribed topical 5-FU for AKs on the face/scalp or hands/forearms. Participants were randomised 1:1 to standard of care (5-FU twice daily) or intervention (5-FU twice daily plus BB5+ repair balm applied 30 min after 5-FU), stratified by treatment site and immunocompetence. Primary outcomes were treatment adherence, (≥ 42 applications over four weeks) and worst local skin reaction (LSR) score using a validated severity scale. Secondary outcomes included LSR scores at weeks 1-4 and Dermatology Life Quality Index (DLQI). In all, 59 participants consented, and 50 completed the study (27 intervention, 23 control). Completion of ≥ 42 applications occurred in 59% of the intervention group and 52% of controls (non-significant). Mean total applications were similar between groups (39.6 versus 39.9). The intervention group demonstrated lower mean worst LSR scores compared with standard care (9.2 versus 10.2) with significantly reduced severity at day 14 (p = 0.0435) and day 21 (p = 0.0054), particularly for face/scalp treatments. DLQI scores were significantly improved in facial treatment subgroups receiving BB5+ repair balm. Although adjunctive BB5+ repair balm did not increase overall treatment completion, it significantly reduced local skin reaction severity and improved quality of life, particularly for facial field therapy. Adjunctive barrier repair may enhance tolerability of topical 5-FU and support patient experience during actinic keratosis treatment. The trial was prospectively registered with the Australian New Zealand Clinical Trials Registry (ACTRN12624000911594). Chronic sun exposure is responsible for the majority of skin cancers, and in this process it generates actinic keratoses, commonly called sun spots, that are a form of precancerous reaction of the skin. Treatment of the sun-exposed skin and actinic keratoses with 5-fluorouracil (5-FU) has been reported as the most effective way to prevent the onset of new skin cancers. However, topical 5-FU is not well tolerated and has many side effects, limiting its acceptability by patients. The aim of this study was to see whether using a prebiotic and panthenol repair dermocosmetic balm alongside topical 5-fluorouracil (5-FU) could reduce skin toxicity and improve patients’ ability to complete treatment. We performed a randomised controlled trial where we looked at adults who were prescribed topical 5-FU for actinic keratoses on the face, scalp, arms or hands. Participants were randomly assigned to receive standard treatment with 5-FU alone or 5-FU plus an additional repair balm Baume B5+ (named BB5+), applied 30 min later. The treatment duration was 4 weeks, where skin reactions, treatment completion rates and quality of life were assessed. Patients using the barrier repair cream experienced less severe skin irritation, and reported better quality of life during treatment. The total amount of treatment completed was similar in both groups. Using a barrier repair cream alongside topical 5-FU may help reduce skin toxicities and improve comfort during treatment, especially for the face. This simple approach may improve patients’ experience of treatment in routine clinical practice.
Assessment of oxidative and inflammatory biomarkers in denture-related traumatic ulcers treated with different topical agents [PMID: 42025121 · 2026]
To investigate the potential role of oxidative and inflammatory status in saliva during the healing of denture-related traumatic ulcers, applying various topical agents. The prospective cohort study included 100 participants with denture-related traumatic ulcers, divided into five groups: traumatic ulcers that were not treated and treated with topical agents (0.2% hyaluronic acid gel, 0.3% hyaluronic acid-taurine gel, a gel based on an herbal preparation, and panthenol mouthwash) for seven days. Unstimulated saliva samples were collected. Oxidative stress parameters were determined spectrophotometrically. Inflammatory markers and vascular endothelial growth factor (VEGF) were analyzed using an enzyme-linked immunosorbent assay. Data were analysed by Kruskal-Wallis and Mann-Whitney U test (P < 0.05). The values of superoxide anion radical, index of lipid peroxidation, and hydrogen peroxide were significantly decreased in groups that used gels based on hyaluronic acid or hyaluronic acid-taurine compared to other groups (P < 0.05); conversely, superoxide dismutase, catalase, and reduced glutathione were significantly increased (P < 0.05). The levels of interleukin-6, interleukin-17, and tumor necrosis factor alpha were significantly decreased (P < 0.05), while the levels of interleukin-10 and VEGF were significantly increased in the hyaluronic acid or hyaluronic acid-taurine groups in comparison to other treatments (P < 0.05). Hyaluronic acid or hyaluronic acid-taurine gels were associated with pronounced changes in salivary biomarkers, reflecting improvements in redox status, inflammation balance, and angiogenesis. The current research may help clarify the potential molecular mechanisms influencing the healing of traumatic ulcers after the placement of new removable dentures using various topical agents, with due consideration of study limitations.
Strengthening benefits of panthenol for hair: Mechanistic evidence from advanced spectroscopic techniques [PMID: 40905518 · 2026]
Small molecules, like panthenol have been shown to penetrate hair. However, their interactions with the protein structures of hair have not been well studied. In this study, the penetration of panthenol into protein structures of hair was confirmed, and NMR methods were utilized to understand the protein-panthenol interaction. This interaction is likely the source of the tensile strength benefits measured with panthenol for hair. Cross-sections of hair treated with deuterium-labelled panthenol were studied using NanoSIMS to visualize the location of panthenol within hair. Solid-state NMR (both 1 H- 13 C and 1 H- 2 H) was employed to measure panthenol interactions inside hair using deuterium-labelled panthenol. Stress/strain curves-where stress is defined as average force per unit area-were measured for hair treated with and without panthenol to generate tensile strength data. Penetration of panthenol into hair was demonstrated, with images indicating specific penetration into cortical protein regions. NMR results from various experiments provided evidence of direct interaction between the N-H of panthenol and protein aromatic side chains. A 'shared' proton was identified between panthenol and hair proteins, indicating spatial proximity and interaction. Break stress and elastic modulus of hair treated with panthenol were higher than those of control hair, suggesting that bonds-likely hydrogen bonds-were formed between panthenol and hair. Panthenol can deliver tensile strength benefits to hair. This benefit is proposed to result from hydrogen bonds formed between panthenol and hair proteins. si l'on sait que de petites molécules comme le panthénol pénètrent dans les cheveux, leurs interactions avec les structures protéiques des cheveux restent cependant peu étudiées. On a ici confirmé la pénétration du panthénol dans les structures protéiques des cheveux et tiré parti de méthodes de résonance magnétique nucléaire (RMN) pour comprendre l'interaction entre les protéines et le panthénol. Cette interaction explique probablement les bénéfices mesurés du panthénol pour les cheveux en termes de résistance à la traction. MÉTHODES: des coupes transversales de cheveux traités avec du panthénol marqué au deutérium ont été étudiées à l'aide d'un NanoSIMS afin de visualiser l'emplacement du panthénol dans les cheveux. La RMN à l'état solide ( 1 H– 13 C et 1 H– 2 H) a été utilisée pour mesurer les interactions du panthénol à l'intérieur des cheveux à l'aide de panthénol marqué au deutérium. Des courbes de contrainte/déformation, où la contrainte est définie comme la force moyenne par unité de surface, ont été mesurées pour des cheveux traités avec et sans panthénol afin de générer des données sur la résistance à la traction. RÉSULTATS: la pénétration du panthénol dans les cheveux a été démontrée grâce à des images indiquant une pénétration spécifique dans les régions protéiques corticales. Les résultats RMN de diverses expériences ont fourni des preuves d'une interaction directe entre le N‐H du panthénol et les chaînes latérales aromatiques des protéines. Un proton « partagé », identifié entre le panthénol et les protéines capillaires, indique une proximité spatiale et une interaction. La rupture et le module d'élasticité des cheveux traités au panthénol se sont avérés supérieurs à ceux des cheveux témoins, ce qui suggère que des liaisons, probablement des liaisons hydrogène, se sont formées entre le panthénol et les
Azelaic acid-integrated therapeutic deep eutectic systems: overcoming solubility and permeability barriers for enhanced transdermal drug delivery [PMID: 41983181 · 2026]
Azelaic acid (AzA) is a saturated dicarboxylic acid used to treat skin disorders like acne, rosacea, and melasma. However, its transdermal application is limited by its poor water solubility and permeability. In this study, therapeutic deep eutectic systems (THEDES) are synthesized by combining azelaic acid (AzA) and D-panthenol (DP) in various molar ratios (3 : 1, 2 : 1, 1 : 1, 1 : 2, 1 : 3). The optimal molar ratio of the THEDES (AzA : DP = 1 : 2) is analyzed with molecular simulation calculations, polarized optical microscopy (POM), Fourier Infrared Spectroscopy (FTIR), Nuclear Magnetic Resonance (1H NMR), Thermogravimetric Analysis (TGA), and water solubility and stability tests. In addition, the THEDES system is evaluated for toxicity, antibacterial and anti-inflammatory efficacy, and transdermal properties. The results show that it outperforms AzA raw material by demonstrating good water solubility and permeability, lower transdermal toxicity and skin irritation, and improved bioactivity compared to AzA raw material. Furthermore, its antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory, and transdermal properties are also superior to those of the AzA raw material. Using molecular docking analysis and molecular dynamics simulation, its mechanisms of action in the treatment of acne and skin permeation are investigated. In conclusion, AzA-DP THEDES effectively resolves AzA's solubility and permeability issues while enhancing its efficacy in Transdermal Drug Delivery Systems (TDDS).
Prostaglandin analogues in cosmetic products formulated for eyelash lengthening [PMID: 42269767 · 2026]
The aim of this work is to investigate the presence of prostaglandin analogues in serums designed to promote eyelash growth. A qualitative study was carried out on 79 cosmetic products promising longer, thicker and/or fuller eyelashes. In this sample of products, we identified those that were formulated with prostaglandin analogues. The serums studied are mainly hydroalcoholic solutions. About 30% of them contain a prostaglandin analogue. Six prostaglandin analogues were found, including bimatoprost and norbimatoprost. The most common are ethyl tafluprostamide, also known as dechloro dihydroxy difluoro ethyl cloprostenolamine (DDDE), and isopropyl cloprostenate. The other serums are formulated with harmless ingredients such as castor oil, amino acids, panthenol, peptides and peptide derivatives. Serums containing prostaglandin analogues are therefore available on the market and are promoted as eyelash growth treatments. They pose a number of problems as they are not regulated for use in cosmetic products.
Open-label, uncontrolled clinical investigation of the performance and safety of a foam containing a hyaluronic acid-derived biopolymer and humectants for management of dermatitis in adults [PMID: 42212981 · 2026]
Atopic (AD) and contact (CD) dermatitis can interfere with everyday function. Non-prescription topical formulations can aid AD/CD symptom relief and alleviate exacerbation. In this post-marketing clinical investigation, performance and safety of a foam containing sodium butyroyl/formoyl hyaluronate, glycerol and panthenol was investigated. This multicenter, open-label, uncontrolled, post-marketing clinical follow-up investigation included 37 adults with mild-to-moderate AD, irritant CD (ICD) or allergic CD (ACD). The foam was applied twice-a-day to affected areas for 42 days and assessed on Days 14, 28 and 42 using the Investigators Global Assessment score (ICA; rated 0-5); the Eczema Area and Severity Index (EASI); the Dermatology Life Quality Index (DLQI); visual analogue scales (VAS) for pruritus, scratching, pain and burning; investigator's global evaluation of performance and participant overall treatment acceptability. Primary endpoint was IGA score change from baseline to Day 28. Success was prespecified as an IGA score decrease ≥1. At Day 28, mean IGA score decreased from baseline by 1.11 (standard deviation 0.68) with treatment success in 88.6% of participants (P<0.0001). At Days 14/42, 52.8%/94.3% (P<0.0001) showed an improved IGA. Progressive improvements were shown in EASI, VAS and DLQI scores to Day 42, significant at each timepoint (P<0.001). For participant and investigator performance evaluation, 94.3% reported improvement. Most participants rated the foam's acceptability as "very much satisfied" or "satisfied." The foam was generally well-tolerated. Use of a foam containing sodium butyroyl/formoyl hyaluronate, glycerol and panthenol led to significant alleviation of AD, ICD or ACD and decreased associated quality of life impacts.
The efficacy of a bioactive moisturizer in mitigating side effects of acne therapies: a randomized, investigator-blind, split-face trial [PMID: 41891349 · 2026]
Acne treatments often cause mucocutaneous side effects. This study compared a bioactive moisturizer (containing 4-t-butylcyclohexanol, licochalcone A, ceramide, and panthenol) with a traditional moisturizer in Asian patients using adapalene/benzoyl peroxide gel or oral isotretinoin. Forty participants applied each moisturizer to one side of the face. Assessments at weeks 0, 2, and 4 included hydration, trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL), pH, erythema, acne lesion counts, Investigator Global Evaluation of Acne (IGEA), and patient satisfaction. Hydration increased on both sides, with greater improvement from the bioactive moisturizer (p=0.001). TEWL increased more with the traditional moisturizer; skin pH decreased on both sides. Acne lesions decreased equally. Both moisturizers reduced burning sensations, but dryness scores were higher with the traditional product (p=0.021). Patient satisfaction was significantly higher for the bioactive side (p=0.004). The bioactive moisturizer significantly improves hydration and reduces dryness, supporting its role as an adjunct to acne therapy.
Fabrication and Evaluation of 3D-printed Dittany-infused Patches for Anti-inflammatory Dermatological Applications [PMID: 41740945 · 2026]
This study aimed to validate the dermatological potential of Origanum dictamnus (dittany) infusion, traditionally recognized for its anti-inflammatory properties. To this end, 3D-printed hydrogel patches incorporating dittany were developed and evaluated for biocompatibility, wound-healing, anti-inflammatory activity, and effects on skin barrier. Hydrogel patches were fabricated via extrusion-based 3D printing using aloe vera gel, hydroxypropyl methylcellulose (HPMC), glycerol, and combinations of dittany infusion and panthenol. In vitro assays with HaCaT keratinocytes included cytotoxicity testing, scratch-wound healing, and qPCR-based analysis of inflammatory biomarkers. In vivo transepidermal water loss (TEWL) measurements were performed to assess skin barrier integrity and hydration after patch application. The traditional use of dittany infusion in skin ailments was confirmed, along with its relatively low cytotoxicity. Three 3D-printed gel types were evaluated in vitro , all showing superior performance to the raw plant extract. The optimal formulation contained 2% HPMC, 2% glycerol, 5% panthenol, and 0.06% dittany infusion (w/w% relative to aloe vera gel). At 3.25 mg/mL, this formulation achieved ~ 70% wound closure and significantly reduced IL-6 and TNF- α levels, indicating strong anti-inflammatory activity (p < 0.05). Both crude extract and patches show a trend toward reducing pro-inflammatory interleukins while simultaneously upregulating the anti-inflammatory cytokine IL-4. TEWL measurements indicated that none of the patches impaired the skin barrier function, confirming their compatibility with various skin types. This study provides the first scientific evidence that the incorporation of dittany infusion into 3D-printed hydrogels holds promise for safe, effective, plant-based topical therapies.
Experimental Valorization of Recycled Palm Oil in Topical Formulations: Preparation, Characterization, and Antimicrobial Assessment [PMID: 41599383 · 2026]
Sustainable strategies for revalorizing food industry by-products are increasingly relevant in the development of modern experimental dermato-cosmetic formulations. In this study, two semisolid cosmetic creams (R10 and EM-R10) were designed using recycled palm oil-physically purified after intensive frying-as the lipid phase. The recycled oil was incorporated strictly within a controlled experimental framework and does not imply cosmetic-grade regulatory compliance. The formulations incorporated distinct bioactive profiles: R10 combined apricot and pineapple extracts with lime essential oil, while EM-R10 integrated fir bud and green tea extracts alongside the same essential oil. Both preparations contained Fragard as a preservative and niacinamide and panthenol as vitaminic components. The physicochemical properties of the formulations were assessed through rheology, confocal microscopy, ATR-FTIR, SEM, DSC, and contact angle measurements. Antimicrobial activity was evaluated against Staphylococcus aureus , Escherichia coli , Pseudomonas aeruginosa , and Candida albicans using disk diffusion and broth microdilution assays. The results demonstrate that, despite partial thermal degradation, recycled palm oil retains modified structural features that influence formulation-related properties relevant to topical systems. EM-R10 showed superior spreadability, adhesion, stability, and diffusion-related performance, as well as improved antimicrobial activity, within the investigated experimental conditions, highlighting recycled palm oil as a promising sustainable lipid phase for experimental dermato-cosmetic formulations, pending further purification, toxicological evaluation, and regulatory compliance assessment.
From Safety Evaluation to Influencing Factors Analysis: A Comprehensive Investigation on Ocular Irritation of Baby Bath Products [PMID: 41304500 · 2025]
Given the underdevelopment and sensitivity of babies' eyes, frequently used baby bath products have garnered attention for their ocular irritation safety. The selection and application of raw materials are key factors. We tested 39 commercial baby bath products for ocular irritation safety and proposed a novel evaluation method using the "Risk Attention Index" to analyze formulation risk factors. The ocular irritation potential of 39 commonly used raw materials under typical usage conditions was investigated via animal and cell models. Results showed over 20% of commercial products had safety risks. Surfactants like cocamidopropyl betaine (CAPB), sodium laureth sulfate (SLES), and sodium lauroamphoacetate (SLA) had the highest "Risk Attention Index", requiring special attention. Some fragrance components were also potential irritants. Combining SLES with panthenol, maltooligosyl glucoside/hydrogenated starch hydrolysate, and Tween ® -28 could significantly reduce its irritation in an animal model. The same ingredients from different sources led to inconsistent irritation results. This suggests that manufacturing processes of raw materials, in addition to their chemical properties, concentration, and combination methods, all influence the ocular irritation potential. This study provides key scientific evidence for assessing ocular irritation and developing low-irritation formulations in baby bath products, thereby enhancing product safety.
A Split-Face Randomized Study on the Efficacy of a Platinum-Liposome-Based Facial Mask Containing Soothing Ingredients for Post-Photorejuvenation Skin Recovery [PMID: 40957858 · 2025]
Photorejuvenation is commonly employed to improve skin appearance but frequently leads to transient irritation and temporary impairment of skin barrier function. Incorporating platinum (Pt)-liposome technology along with soothing ingredients such as panthenol, dipotassium glycyrrhizate, madecassoside, and Portulaca oleracea extract is expected to offer enhanced reparative and anti-inflammatory effects, helping to alleviate post-procedural skin sensitivity and restore barrier integrity. This study aimed to evaluate the efficacy of a Pt-liposome-based facial mask in promoting skin recovery and soothing irritation post-photorejuvenation. Furthermore, the study assessed potential synergistic benefits from combining Pt-liposomes with established soothing agents. We initially assessed the reparative effects of Pt-liposomes using a 3D epidermal skin model and normal human epidermal keratinocytes (NHEK), evaluating parameters such as stratum corneum thickness, cholesterol content, ceramide chain length, and inflammatory responses (IL-8 mRNA expression) following lipopolysaccharide (LPS) stimulation. A randomized, split-face clinical trial involving 30 subjects who underwent photorejuvenation treatment was then conducted. Each participant applied the Pt-liposome-infused facial mask to one side of the face and a control product on the other side. Skin hydration, transepidermal water loss (TEWL), and erythema, tightness, dryness, and scaliness were assessed using objective instrumentation and subjective evaluations at baseline and various intervals up to 14 days post-treatment. In vitro testing showed that Pt-liposomes significantly increased stratum corneum thickness, cholesterol levels, and ceramide chain length (p < 0.01). Pt-liposomes also reduced histamine-induced calcium influx in NHEK cells (p < 0.01). In LPS-stimulated THP-1 cells, combined treatment with Pt-liposomes and soothing agents resulted in a greater reduction in IL-8 mRNA expression compared to either component alone (p < 0.01). Clinical measurements indicated that the application of the Pt-liposome-based facial mask significantly increased skin hydration and reduced TEWL compared to control (p < 0.001) from Day 1 to Day 14. Subjective and dermatological evaluations showed statistically significant improvements in erythema, tightness, dryness, and scaliness on the treated side at all measured time points. No adverse reactions were reported. The Pt-liposome-infused facial mask can effectively promote skin barrier repair, alleviate irritation, and enhance hydration following photorejuvenation. Its synergistic combination with soothing ingredients provides rapid relief from irritation and sustained therapeutic benefits, supporting its potential as a safe and effective option for post-procedural skincare.
자주 묻는 질문 (AEO 스니펫 최적화 FAQ)
- Q1. 판테놀 (PANTHENOL)의 국가별 공식 전성분 표기명은 어떻게 다른가요?
- 한국 식약처 표준명은 '판테놀', 미국 PCPC 및 유럽 CosIng INCI 표기는 'PANTHENOL', 중국 NMPA IECIC 표준명은 '泛醇', 일본 화장품 표시명칭은 'パンテノール'입니다.
- Q2. 판테놀의 글로벌 6대 권역 법정 배합 한도(Layer 1)는 무엇인가요?
- 한국(KR: noted), 유럽(EU: none), 미국(US: none), 중국(CN: allowed), 일본(JP: restricted), 아세안(ASEAN: none) 고시 기준을 준수하여 처방해야 합니다.
- Q3. 제형 설계 시 판테놀의 통상 배합 농도(Layer 3)와 적정 pH는 얼마인가요?
- 대표 제형군(aqueous_serum) 기준 통상 0.2~5%(권장 중앙값 1%) 범위로 투입하며, 적정 pH는 4.5~6.5입니다.
- Q4. 판테놀 배합 시 주의해야 할 상용성 금기(Incompatibilities)와 시너지 성분은 무엇인가요?
- 주요 권장 시너지 조합은 MADECASSOSIDE, CERAMIDE NP, ALLANTOIN, NIACINAMIDE, ECTOIN이며, 배합 주의사항은 pH 3.5 미만 강산이나 pH 7.5 초과 알칼리 및 75°C 이상 장시간 가열 시 가수분해되어 활성이 저하됨; 3.0~5.0% 고함량 처방에서는 꿀 같은 점착감(Tackiness)이 발생하므로 경량 알칸·실리콘·실리카 파우더로 사용감 보정 필요입니다.