OCTOCRYLENE

Octocrylene or octocrilene is an organic ultraviolet (UV) filter which absorbs mainly UVB radiation and short UVA wavelengths. It is used in various cosmetic products to either provide an appropriate sun protection factor in sunscreen products or to protect cosmetic formulations from UV radiation. There is no discussion that UV filters are beneficial ingredients in cosmetics since they protect from skin cancer, but octocrylene has been recently incriminated to potentially induce adverse effects on the endocrine system in addition to having allergic and/or photoallergic potential. However, the substance has the advantage to work synergistically with other filters allowing a beneficial broad photoprotection, e.g. it stabilizes the UVA filter avobenzone (i.e. butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane). Like all chemicals used in cosmetics, the safety profile of octocrylene is constantly under assessment by the European Chemical Agency (ECHA) since it has been registered according to the European regulation Registration, Evaluation, Authorisation and Restriction of Chemicals. Summaries of safety data of octocrylene are publicly available on the ECHA website. This review aims to present the main safety data from the ECHA website, as well as those reported in scientific articles from peer-reviewed journals. The available data show that octocrylene does not have any endocrine disruption potential. It is a rare sensitizer, photocontact allergy is more frequent and it is considered consecutive to photosensitization to ketoprofen. Based on these results, octocrylene can be considered as safe when used as a UV filter in cosmetic products at a concentration up to 10%.

Gamete quality is crucial to the reproductive success of marine broadcast spawners, as environmental stressors can disrupt their structure and function. This study investigates the effects of the organic UV-protective agents octocrylene (OC) and benzophenone (BP), following ex vivo exposure (1, 10, 100 µg.L -1 ), on the oxidative balance, DNA integrity, and fertilization success of Pacific oyster (Magallana gigas) gametes. OC and BP induced spermiotoxicity via DNA damage without affecting acrosome integrity or redox status, while oocyte redox status and energy profile were unchanged. Nevertheless, fertilization decreased across all treatments when oocytes or sperm were exposed individually, and at the highest concentrations when both gametes were exposed. A 10-30% drop in fertilization proved sensitive for detecting impairment. Overall, low OC and BP levels reduce oyster fertilization through effects not captured by standard biochemical biomarkers, supporting fertilization success as an integrative, sensitive endpoint of gamete function.

Eye discomfort is a common issue for consumers using sunscreen products. While UV filters are suspected of being the main cause, no clear scientific evidence has been found to support this hypothesis. This research aims to develop a scientifically effective eye irritation screening method to provide a scientific explanation for the eye discomfort caused by UV filters. In order to assess the ocular irritation of two UV filters, Octocrylene (OCT) and Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate (OMC), a combination of in silico and in vitro methods was employed. In silico prediction was conducted using seven computational ADMET prediction models (e.g. AdmetSAR 3.0, ADMETlab 2.0). The i n vitro experimental validation included Bovine Corneal Opacity and Permeability (BCOP) and Short Time Exposure (STE) assays, and TRPV1 ion channel activation was probed using TRPV1-overexpressing rabbit corneal epithelial cells (TRPV1-OE SIRC cells). Different in silico toxicology prediction models did not yield consistent results regarding the eye irritation potential of the two UV filters. The results of the BCOP and STE tests showed that both UV filters were nonirritating. Detection of TRPV1 channel activation indicated that OCT can induce Ca 2+ influx in cells, resulting in ocular discomfort, while OMC did not. These results indicated that this in vitro screening method based on the activation of the TRPV1 channel is more sensitive in detecting stinging sensations in the eyes. This mechanism may provide a possible explanation for UV filter-induced eye discomfort and has potential for screening other cosmetic ingredients that cause such discomfort without irritation.

Ultraviolet radiation is the leading cause of skin damage, such as burns, premature aging, and the development of skin cancer. Organic sunscreens are widely used in the cosmetics industry due to their ability to absorb ultraviolet radiation and dissipate it as heat. These compounds can be susceptible to photochemical instability, which compromises their effectiveness over time and also poses environmental risks, particularly in aquatic ecosystems. This study investigated the electronic properties, absorption spectra, and solvent effects of five widely used organic UV filters: Avobenzone, Homosalate, Octisalate, Octocrylene, and Bemotrizinol. The analyses were performed through DFT and TD-DFT calculations. Solvent effects were evaluated using an implicit solvent model and complemented by molecular dynamics simulations in an aqueous environment.

A critical element for understanding measured concentrations and predicting exposure levels of UV filters (UVFs) in recreational waters relates to mass released from sunscreen products applied to skin during swimming and bathing. A probabilistic mass transfer kinetic model was developed to estimate distributions of the mass of five organic UVFs released during individual swim events with sunscreen. The model incorporates the ratios of different demographics and distributions of their total skin areas, adjusted to account for body areas to which sunscreens are not typically applied or do not contact water. The resulting distribution of skin areas is combined with distributions of sunscreen application rates and UVF levels in sunscreen products to generate a distribution of UVF masses on skin that are exposed to water with the fraction released to water calculated using a first-order equation describing the kinetics of release. The predicted median mass released during a swim event was 112 mg for oxybenzone, 32.6 mg for avobenzone, 23.5 mg for octocrylene, 47.7 mg for homosalate, and 7.59 mg for octisalate. As proof of principle, the model was used to repeat previous modeling at Prophète Beach, which resulted in predicted median values for oxybenzone and avobenzone within a factor of three of the reported measured environmental concentrations.

Allergic contact dermatitis (ACD) to personal care products (PCPs) represents a significant and growing clinical challenge, with increasing use of diverse PCPs and their expanding range of ingredients. Common allergenic components include fragrances, botanicals, preservatives, surfactants, emollients, emulsifiers, vitamins, and ultraviolet filters. Patch testing remains the gold standard for diagnosing ACD and identifying causative allergens, but traditional panels often fail to capture emerging PCP-related allergens. This review highlights key established and emerging PCP allergens, such as limonene and linalool hydroperoxides, sodium benzoate, octocrylene, and benzophenone-4. Strategies are discussed to optimize diagnostic accuracy through targeted series and repeated open application tests. Patient education about PCP labeling is paramount when assisting patients with allergen avoidance. Clinicians must balance precise allergen identification with practical management knowledge to improve outcomes in PCP-related ACD.

Organic ultraviolet absorbers （OUVAs） are a class of emerging contaminants that have garnered significant attention in recent years. In response to the characteristics of high detection frequency and low concentrations of OUVAs in water bodies， this study established an analytical method based on solid phase extraction （SPE） coupled with ultra-high performance liquid chromatography-tandem mass spectrometry （UHPLC-MS/MS） for the simultaneous determination of 16 OUVAs （nine UV stabilizers and seven UV filters） in drinking water. The 500 mL water sample was pretreated with 25 mg ascorbic acid， acidified to pH 2-3， and spiked with 1 mL of 5 μg/L mixed internal standard working solution. Target compounds were enriched and concentrated using an HLB solid phase extraction cartridge （200 mg/6 mL）. Separation was achieved on an Acquity Premier BEH C 18 column （100 mm×2.1 mm， 1.7 μm） using a gradient elution with methanol and 2 mmol/L ammonium acetate aqueous solution as the mobile phases. Detection was performed using electrospray ionization in positive mode and multiple reaction monitoring （MRM）， with quantification carried out by the internal standard method. The precision and accuracy of the established method were evaluated using drinking water as the matrix. The results showed that all 16 OUVAs exhibited good linearity within their respective mass concentration ranges， with correlation coefficients （ r ） greater than 0.992. The method detection limits （MDL， S/N= 3） were 0.03-5 ng/L， and the method quantification limits （MQL， S/N= 10） were 0.1-15 ng/L. At spiked levels of 5， 20 and 50 ng/L， the recoveries of the target analytes ranged from 75.0% to 130.6%， with relative standard deviations （RSDs） ranging from 0.9% to 12.9% （ n =6）. A total of seven source water samples and seven drinking water samples were analyzed using this method. The results showed that two OUVAs， 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone （UV-9） and octocrylene （OC） were detected. In source water， the mass concentrations of UV-9 ranged from <MQL to 13.4 ng/L， while OC mass concentrations ranged from 5.0 to 32.23 ng/L. In drinking water， UV-9 was detected at 0.4 ng/L， and OC mass concentrations ranged from <MQL to 13.2 ng/L. This method is suitable for the trace analysis of 16 OUVAs in drinking water， demonstrating good accuracy and precision. It effectively improves the detection efficiency of OUVAs in water and can be used for the environmental monitoring and analysis of OUVAs in drinking water in China. 有机紫外吸收剂（OUVAs）是一类近年来备受关注的新污染物。本研究针对水体中OUVAs检出率高且含量低的特点，建立了一种基于固相萃取-超高效液相色谱-串联质谱同时检测生活饮用水中9种紫外稳定剂与7种紫外过滤剂的分析方法。在500 mL水样中先加入25 mg抗坏血酸，然后加入盐酸将pH调至2~3，再加入1 mL 5 μg/L的混合内标工作液，用HLB固相萃取柱（200

Selected organic sunscreens from different chemical families were investigated in the context of their ability to inhibit butyrylcholinesterase using novel Multiple Linear Regression, Artificial Neural Network, and Support Vector Regression models based on a set of six independent variables commonly associated with compounds' absorption and distribution properties. It was established that the descriptors that have a particularly strong, positive influence on the ability of compounds to inhibit BChE expressed as p IC 50 are the count of rotatable bonds ( nRot ) and lipophilicity (log D ); p IC 50 is negatively correlated with flexibility ( Flex ), fraction of sp 3 carbon atoms ( F sp3 ), caco-2 permeability ( caco2 ), and plasma protein binding ability ( PPB ). The sunscreens that are likely to be particularly strong BChE inhibitors are Ethylhexyl Triazone (ET), Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone (DOBT), Octocrylene (OCR), and Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate (DHHB). However, it must be stressed that ET and DOBT lie outside the chemical space of the reference compounds, so predictions for these two compounds should be treated with caution.

Organic UV filters are ubiquitous aquatic contaminants, yet their sublethal, age-specific effects on non-target invertebrates remain poorly understood. This study investigated the ontogenetic shifts in detoxification strategies of Daphnia magna exposed to three common UV filters (Avobenzone, Octocrylene, Octinoxate) and their environmentally relevant ternary mixture. By comparing 3-day-old juveniles and 6-day-old subadults, we integrated molecular biomarkers (in vivo ECOD and MXR efflux activity, and CAT/SOD antioxidant enzymes) with whole-organism physiological endpoints (heart rate and locomotion). Results revealed a distinct developmental window of susceptibility. Juveniles exhibited a highly responsive phenotype, characterized by robust MXR capacity and highly inducible CYP450 enzymes and active antioxidant mobilization. However, this active biochemical state was accompanied by pronounced bradycardia under chemical stress, consistent with the physiological cost of detoxification. In contrast, 6-day-old sub-adults displayed ttenuated molecular response pattern, showing lower biochemical inducibility but maintaining stable cardiac function. Alarmingly, Avobenzone acted as a dual-action toxicant in adults, simultaneously inhibiting both CYP metabolism and MXR efflux. Furthermore, the low-dose mixture compromised the adult MXR system without triggering explicit avoidance behaviour. These findings highlight that UV filters act as active modulators of the Daphnia defence network, emphasizing the need to incorporate life-stage specific vulnerabilities and mechanistic biomarkers into future ecological risk assessments.

Organic UV-filters (OUVFs), key ingredients of sunscreens, are increasingly recognized as emerging anthropogenic contaminants; however, their occurrence, seasonal dynamics, and ecological risks in intensively used freshwater recreational lakes remain poorly characterized. By integrating advanced environmental analytics, ecological risk assessment, multiparametric emission modelling, and citizen-science data, we present the first multi-matrix assessment of five widely used OUVFs - avobenzone (AVO), octocrylene (OC), octinoxate (EHMC), iscotrizinol (DBT), and ethylhexyl triazone (EHT) - in Lake Balaton. The study area is the largest shallow freshwater lake in Central Europe and one of Europe's most intensively used recreational water bodies. Most of the investigated compounds are widely used across Europe and/or included in the 5th EU Watch List (2025) under the Water Framework Directive, underscoring their regulatory relevance. Our matrix-optimized SPE-UHPLC-MS/MS method enabled sensitive quantification across environmental compartments. Maximum concentrations reached up to 152,603 ng/L in surface water, 975 ng/g d.w. in sediment, 28,116 ng/g d.w. in periphyton, and 46,012 ng/g d.w. in biota. Risk quotient analysis revealed high acute environmental risk for four compounds (e.g., RQ_EHT = 107.5). A newly developed multiparametric emission model, which can be applied to any shallow lake to realistically estimate the load of OUVFs, further estimated that 4.8-284.1 tons of OUVFs may enter Lake Balaton during a 60-day bathing period via direct recreational inputs (medium-use scenario: approximately 65 tons). Our study provides the first comprehensive assessment of next-generation OUVFs in Lake Balaton and shows that shallow recreational lakes experience substantial contaminant pressure during peak tourist periods. The combined analytical, modelling, and citizen-science evidence identifies sunscreen-derived contamination in shallow recreational lakes as a recreational intensity-driven pathway, i.e. the dominant control variables remain the number of bathers and treated skin surface area. Our findings not only emphasize the urgent need to include OUVFs in monitoring programs but also highlight that the effective management of sunscreen-derived pollution for the long-term sustainability of freshwater lakes requires complementing compound-centered regulatory approaches with recreation-oriented intervention strategies.

The photodynamics of a given chromophore are usually affected by the surrounding environment (e.g., solvent or matrix). As a result, it is often assumed that the 'fundamental' spectroscopic behavior of a given chromophore, usually studied in dilute solution, is not relevant to the understanding of more complex mixtures. In this work, we demonstrate that the 'fundamental' photodynamics of common sunscreen UV filters are comparable to those observed in formulation, including the complex interactions between them, and even for formulation applied to a skin mimic. In particular, we have carried out ultrafast laser spectroscopy studies directly on sunscreen formulations containing methyl anthranilate (MA), ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate (EHMC), and octocrylene (OCR) as commonly used UV filters. Our results not only have significant implications for the sunscreen industry, providing direct evidence of UV filter interactions in formulation, but importantly they are demonstrative of the relevance of 'fundamental' spectroscopic techniques to understanding real-life systems.

Concerns regarding the environmental risks of UV-filters used in suncare products have grown in recent years. Much of this concern has been driven by their use in products by consumers engaged in outdoor recreational activities, such as swimming, which can facilitate their direct emissions into aquatic systems. Uncertainties in estimating the amount of a UV-filter that might be directly emitted to water, however, represent a continuing challenge, and include the need to quantify the number of users of suncare products, the skin area covered, the concentration of the UV-filter in the product and the extent to which the UV-filter is 'washed-off'. This study aims to address this gap, which includes the development and application of screening-level exposure Models to Evaluate the direct Release of Cosmetic Ingredients (MERCI). The tier 1 and 2 MERCI models-SUNscreen and multi-SUNscreen-are described, with application to octocrylene, a well-studied UV-filter used in suncare products. Model results suggest that both tools provide reasonable estimates of environmental exposure. Specifically, the tier 1 SUNscreen model, estimates an environmental concentration of 422 ng·L-1 in freshwater and range from 191-428 ng·L-1 in marine water capturing differences between low-moderate tidal dilution rates, whereas sediment concentrations are estimated to be 206 ng·g-1 dw (freshwater) and 94-210 ng·g-1 dw (marine). The tier 2 multi-SUNscreen model, on the other hand, estimates freshwater concentrations of 81 ng·L-1 in water and 0.5 ng·g-1 dw in sediment, results that are observed to be within an order of magnitude of monitoring data. Overall, both models support a conservative, screening-level approach for estimating environmental exposure to UV-filters, and thus represent tools that can be readily utilized to support both risk assessment and research prioritization.